“Quilt and bind as desired.” That’s the instructions most quilt and quilt coat patterns offer, but what if you don’t know what you desire? This month on MAKE with Teresa Coates, we do a deep dive into binding and share a variety of techniques to help you figure out what works best for you!

This two-hour class on binding covers each aspect of binding, from cutting the strips to sewing it down. Within each topics, I share insights on why you might choose one technique over another for certain projects. In the end, I hope I’ve given you some new tips and inspiration to try a different way of binding on your next project (even if it’s just coasters, like I did!)

Find out more about:

• Why use Bias vs. WOF binding
• Width of binding options
• Ways to create a long binding strip
• Choosing which side to sew it on
• How to join the ends
• various techniques for stitching it down

Bias vs. WOF binding

Which way is best? Well, that depends on the project you are binding.

Does it have rounded corners or curved edges? A bias binding has a lot more stretch and will fold around those curves nicely, giving them a smooth finish without puckers or cupping.

Does it have all straight edges? This is a fine time to use WOF binding.

Is it meant to be an heirloom? Using a bias binding will result in a longer-lasting quilt binding as it is less likely to fray along the edge. This is due to the many overlapping fibers that are along the fold of a bias strip, rather than a couple of fibers going the full length of the binding.

Is it for a child? This is where I’d recommend binding WOF, but with Cuddle® 3 or Luxe Cuddle® minky to give it a strong, yet incredibly soft edge. It’s not as hard as you might think it is (one layer and a raw edge to stitch down!), so consider it for your next baby or child’s quilt project.

What size to cut your binding?

It all comes down to personal preference, really but some widths are better for different techniques. In our MAKE class, i shared four different widths and what techniques work best with each:

2″ wide binding: Because this is narrow it is best for hand-sewing binding to the backing of the quilt. Folded in half it is only 1″ wide, so accounting for the folds it will create a binding that, when sewn to the front, is just about a quarter-inch wide when pulled to the wrong side.

2-1/8″ wide binding: This is my personal favorite and I use it by folding in half to create a 1-1/16th inch wide binding, then sewing it to the backing of the quilt. Pull it around to the front and machine stitch it in position with a Binding (or Compensating) foot and a stiletto. It makes for a fast, neat and fairly easy way to bind quilts of all sizes. It’s best for topstitching binding to front of the quilt.

2-1/4″ wide binding: Most quilt tutorials and patterns (including my Crinkle Dreams patterns) will call for a 2-1/4″ wide binding because it’s flexible in how you sew it in place. You can sew it to the front and bring it around to the back, then stitch-in-the-ditch (though I recommend glue basting for that one!) or sew it to the back and bring it around to the front and topstitch. If you want, you can even hand-sew it to the backing. It will create a slightly wider finished binding, but it is the most universally used width. .

2-1/2″ wide binding: Few patterns call for binding this wide, but some people choose to make a wider binding to make it easier to catch it from the back when stitching from the front. I recommend using a stitch-in-the-ditch foot and clipping lots or use glue basting. It often results in a wobbly look on the back as it is hard to keep it consistent when it isn’t seen while stitching.

How to join the ends?

There are numerous ways to join the end, but my preferred method is to sew them together with a bias seam so the start/stop of the binding is completely hidden.